Some guys will just simply cut the head straight off and simply glue on another. This method is the most basic and I,m sure guys who have tried this have learned pretty quick that this method is not very sturdy and they most likely had the head fall back off.
Then there are a couple of ways of pinning the heads with rod and glue and then there is hollowing out both the head and neck and filling both holes with putty and then you can also do both the rod and glue combined with putty.
I,ll explain all these methods but the photos will show how to do the last option of both putty and rod and glue.
I like this method best because even if your drilled holes do not line up perfect you still can fine tune in the fit to where you want it, but with a pin and glue if your fit is off you,ll pull it back apart and tweak your work and maybe re-drill to get it to line up. This is not that big a deal getting it right on a head swop pinning and gluing but this same method is also used on arms and other body parts also where the proper lining up of the parts will be very important.
All right lets get to the pictures and getting the heads cut off! You DON,T want to make a straight cut to take the head off! Cut around in a circle being real careful that you stay to the collar line. Once you have a solid cut around then you can finish cutting all the way through or twist the head off.
I like to do my head cuts down into the neck at a bit of an angle and then twist the head off, this leaves the neck with more plastic with a taper to be fitted into the new body and leaves the body it came from with the start of a hollowed out neck to accept a new head.
This is a bit more tricky to get used to and you have more of a chance of cutting your fingers this way so be careful and work your way up to this if just getting started.
This first pic shows the angle I was talking about to cut off the head at a taper work your way up to this angle cut if just getting started and remember to make a smaller cut all the way around the head and then make the final cut or twist to remove the head to avoid a bad cut that will ruin the collar line on the figure.
Pic #2
Some figures like this one here will have detail on the neck line that you will want to keep that is in the way of making a clean straight cut. You will have cut up on an angle and make this cut first being careful to cut what you want to stay and then be careful not to cut this piece off when you make your final cut.
You can fine tune the cut on this tassel piece after you remove it try and cut it in a spot where you,ll have enough plastic on the neck to repair the collar cut and also be able trim the tassel cut also so pretty much in the middle.
Pic #3 Now that the head is off take your hobby knife and stick in the middle of the neck hole and start a little pilot hole by twisting the knife.
If your just going for wire pin and glue you just need to make a pilot hole to get your drill bit in and just use a fine bit the same size as your wire and about a 1/2 in to 1in deep.
This is where I,ll explain how there are 3 different methods You can also take the hobby knife and continue twisting and cutting out the neck hollowing it out to accept 2 part putty and do the same to the head also and fill both sections with two part putty and make the join with a 2 part putty pin and 3rd You can combine both methods together and do both as I will explain next!.
Pic#4-Alright here is the neck hollowed out to accept putty
Pic #5-This is the hollowed neck to be drilled and then Pic#6 of the drilled and hollowed body and also a small ball of 2 part putty that,ll be added in when the head is to be set in place.
If your going for both you,ll also want to drill out the head but be careful not to go to deep and drill right through the head or worst yet through your fingers!!!
Alright next Pic is of getting the pin in the head! You can use many types of wire there are many different kinds and thickness What you use and like is a matter of opinion so I,m not going to get to much into that right now but I like to get a size that fit my smaller sized drill bits with a good fit and that is not to rigid in case I need to bend it a bit. I have used different wires in the past but this floral wire in the photo works fine for what I,m doing.
Its always best to fit the wire into head first and get that glued on because the head is small and you don,t have much play in the wire where as in the body you can drill the hole as deep as you want and then cut back the wire on the head to the size you need.
The picture shows the wire to be glued into the head and if you look close you,ll see that there is putty wrapped around the wire. This is what you can do to build up the wire to fit the hole if the wire is to loose because you don,t have the right sized wire and drill bit, but this will also give you more play in the line up of the head to the body also.
Just add some glue and get it as deep as you can in the hole. The next step will be cutting it back and checking the fit into the body.
Well that,s it for head swops!
FISH! <"))))><

13 comments:
Hi Fish, pretty much how I do it but I use a wall screw and make the hole in the neck and head by manual hand-power. I use nails which are very solid once forced into the body and head and excess nail length is snipped off and a bit of glue, but usually glue is not required as the nail is a solid fit.
It is easy working this process on hat and AIP soft plastic figures but more effort is required on Italeri figures as the plastic is hard.
Excellent tutorial Fish - maybe Professor Fish will be the appropriate title in time with a BA or MA is plastic figure converting! Keep the posts coming.
Fish, This blog has really taken off for me since you've been posting. Thanks for all the tips and details.
Thanks Scott! You should sign up and join in also. Your conversions and converting skills are great and your knowledge of history and uniforms and your eye for accurate historical detail study before you convert figures would make for some great posts also.
I was just on the TreeFrog forum today as a matter of fact looking at what you had done to Steve Westons Mexican peasants for conversions and they are incredible conversions you did to them. I only wish you had painted them up also because you have great painting skills also.
Why not sign up and post a few pics???
I know there are a lot more of us figure converters hiding out there lurking and I,m sure there are guys out there who can make my work look sickly and I hope some of these guys will join in and us figure converters of all levels can bounce ideas off each other and comment on each others work and we will all learn something new and improve our skills and further the art of basic plastic figure conversion. So come on guys lets see some Conversions and talk about how you went about doing them.
Thanks again Scott!
FISH!<"))))><
FISH I am wanting ti attach a metal head to a plastic body and have never done one before. Can I have some advice.
I found a glue at the supermarket that attaches plastic very strongly.
I am learning some great stuff , so thanks keep it going.
Scott are you the guy that did the Austrian Calarly conversions?
Thanks Anth! Does the metal head have a peg attached to it???
If the metal head has a peg just drill out or hollow out the neck section of the body and glue in the metal head.
Check the fit first and see how it looks and if the fit is good and tight. If not add in some 2 part putty place in the head and cut/scrap off any extra putty that comes out when the head is placed in.
I like the zap a gap glue because as the name states it also fills gaps also and is great for this type of work.
If your metal head does not have any type of peg to hold it on you should drill it out and add a metal rod to pin it in place.
Good luck!
P.S. that was not Scott who did the Ausrian cavalry.
Those were done by Mike Blake who is a great figure converter who I wish would join in over here also.
He has done some incredible conversion work and is one of the guys whos work has insipered me.
<"))))><
Fish, I know that Plastic Warrior magazine are interested in showing more conversions in their magazine. I was asked by a fellow reader to contribute recently.
Plastic Warrior has a large readership and would be ideal to promote hat 1/32nd figures and their conversion potential.
Regards
9th
Dave I,ve never read or seen that maginze around here, is that an England based magazine?
How is the magazine, I have heard the name but I know nothing about it,what type of mag is it and is it any good?
I,d have no idea on how to go about writing an artical for a magazine I know nothing about, besides my grammer is not that great to be writting for a magazine.
I do like any chance to help spread the hobby of converting figures though, there are not many guys out there doing it and not much on the subject of how to do it.
When I was getting started into it I couldn,t find anything on the subject and I was thrilled when I stumbled onto an artical by Mike Blake in a toy soldier magazine, so I can see how a chance at doing something in a Magazine would be something that would help bring in new blood into the hobby.
There are a couple of books that I came across along the way looking for stuff on converting figures and in a future post I,ll try and do a list of books and links of stuff I think will help guys but most of the books I have seen are more of kit bashing type books which is fine but I consider plastic figures bashing a bit different from kit bashing.
I have a lot of ideas for future posts!
Here are just a few ideas off the top of my head!
working with 2 part putty!
Making scratch parts, fixing ruined detail,different putties,how to work the putty and get different textures and get it smooth.
How to get ideas for converions, finding parts,placeing the parts in place and getting them cut right and trimming to fit.
multi figure conversions where 2 or more figures interact with each other and lots of other ideas also but I need to start to space out my ideas further apart maybe to a weekly or monthly thing so It dosn,t burn out to quick.
To bad other guys can,t add to the origanal post and add pictures like a forum because a what are you working on thread would be great where every one could post pics of what they are doing.
I,d also like to get us into talking about scratch building scenic stuff and how to go about making that stuff also.
I hope others will join in and this could be a place where we all can come and learn something new or even just share our work with each other.
Just showing what you have created can inspire others and give them new ideas.
If we all start posting this could be a real fun place!
FISH!<")))><
http://plasticwarrior.co.uk/
Essential reading for any plastics enthusiast worldwide! Get all the news on new stuff, and all the gen on old stuff - it all gets covered here. It is a magazine for plastic nuts written and produced by plastic nuts.
Thanks for the info FISH I cut the head so it will have no peg. I will try your method.
I'd like to know a place I might also see other conversions done by Mike Blake.
I also like the work of Mr. Vladimir Iljin from Russia.
I have photos of some of my conversions on PhotoBucket, and some appeared in Toy Soldier & Model Figure magazine a couple of years ago. I am slowly getting around to up-loading all the photos I have to the PhotoBucket site but it will take a while. Also going on there are photos of Skirmish Wargames 54mm games, where the figures contain lots of conversions.
I googled Skirmish Wargames 54mm games and see some of your work.
AlAndalus is very creative.I'll be looking for more.
I googled Skirmish Wargames 54mm games and see some of your work.
AlAndalus is very creative.I'll be looking for more.
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